Columbus Artisanal Salumi

I still can't figure how a large-ish California company can produce salumi at such reasonable prices....salumi that is as good as the Columbus Artisanal Collection salumi is! "The Collection" represents Columbus' four top-of-the-line products (Columbus also makes less expensive products)--but, in my opinion, "The Collection" stands with the best salumi available in America, no matter where it's made, no matter what it costs.

I'm particularly fond of the Finocchiona, a Tuscan specialty, made with wild fennel seed and coarse-ground pork; this dry-cured sausage gets 90 days of aging, twice as much as any other product in the line! Once you slice this baby, the slices have an artisanal look: lots of visual distinction between the red-bronze meat and the white, fatty bits. These are amazing, velvety slices that seem just to be held together by air and faith--which makes them easy to eat (a lot of!). Not intensely fenneled, but terrific butcher-shop flavor, almost confit-like.

The Crespone Salame, all mushroomy and truffley from its white, flor-caked casing, is a specialty of the Brianza region in northern Italy; you can pick up the tastes of wine, garlic and pepper in this one.

The Cacciatore Dry Salami, similar to the Crespone, but thinner and drier, is also superb, with just a hint of herbs.

And the Felino, often considered the king of Italian salame, is traditionally made in the Parma region of Italy. Stuffed in a thick casing called a "culare," it takes a long time to achieve its smooth texture and wonderfully complex aroma.

Thinking of throwing a party.....and looking for an easy first course? An "affettata"--an array of sliced salumi on a platter--is a brilliant solution!

And it ain't half-bad for lunch, either.....on Italian bread, with cheese, peppers, lettuce, tomato, herbs, olive oil, olives.....Mama Mia! Open that Chianti!